Turkey in distance
While waiting for permits to renovate our stone house, now is a good time to explore our village, best way to do this is on foot. Frantato is a mountainous village, approximately 244 meters altitude with unobstructed views of mountains, Ikarian sea, is located on North side of Island, from our house you can see Turkey in distance approximately 25 nautical miles away.
Last known census I could find was for 1991 there was 124 people living in village of Frantato. We start our walk here, we pass by neglected Stone houses, one of historians in village(Kosta) tells us that many Ikarians left during hard times to make money elsewhere, went to America, Australia, Athens, in hopes of returning one day. Some structures have remained like this for over 100 years. Sadly some beyond repair, others waiting to be discovered, restored.
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Village Frantato
Stairs garden
Ikaria is known to be a self sustaining Island!
Every Ikarian has their own Vegatable garden.
Olive is harvested
Placed in bottle of seawater
Three months
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| Our first production |
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| Vineyards in hibernation |
Every family here takes great pride producing their own wine. Most have a unlimited supply of plastic coke bottles filled with their harvest stored in cold storage area. At local gatherings or when you drop in for a visit, its brought out to be tasted, discussed, debated compared & celebrated. There is a feeling of satisfaction and pride for every family who had produced, harvested their wine.
Family's production &
Organized Vineyard of Tsantiris
My husband prefers locals production in plastic bottles as do most Ikarians.
For me locals wines can be hit or miss, but I have to admit I have drank some amazing homemade wines at weddings, celebrations, Baptisms & gatherings. Either way we will argue that we have both drank some of most uncelebrated wine in the world.
Not far up road is George & Eleni Organic farm & vineyards they offer traditional cooking classes, along with wine pairing.We have enjoyed their farm to table dinners, we can tell you first hand Eleni is incredible hostess, has a passion for her cooking, it is evident in every dish she puts on her table. George her husband, enjoys sharing his knowledge about his farm and wines. Truly authentic Ikarian experience
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| Dried grapes my husband had me Sample raisin right off vine Amazing taste |
* Interesting practice on Ikaria is to add water to their wine when drinking. I am told their wine has high alcohol content 14-18%, if you want to stay up all night at Panegeri( outdoor festival) with traditional Greek music, dancing, feasting on wild goat I am told you must adopt this practice. Ikarians also say you must add water to your wine on the months that don't include letter R *
While walking we ran into Lew
One of more colorful
Ikarians
Lew
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| Cute Little creatures?.. |
It's peaceful & relaxing strolling through our new village. Beautiful stone walls that mark beginning & end of a owners property, stone stairs that lead to a vineyard, gardens located on terraced land, paths that lead off into woods, but I am not brave enough to wander off the road yet so we continue on main road.
Small Greek Orthodox Church
We have passed by several of these beautiful little churches, all of which are open, to light a candle, sit in silence for awhile, pray.
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| Donkey Power |
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| Wheat Mill |
We wondered about this structure that we had seen on our walk . We are told that they used a giant stone wheel pulled by a donkey to crush & grind wheat
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| Saw a local with bag full these Acorns She got away before I could ask What she would do with them? |
We head to Square of Frantato meet up with Kiki & Dimitri ,
for a dinner at a local Taverna. Their home is a renovated stone house that use to be a stable.
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| Kiki &Dimitris house |
We meet up at a small taverna in Frantato, which opens at 8pm. That's late for us to be eating our dinner, I am embarrassed to say we are usually in for the night at this time, in Ikaria their evening has just begun
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| Mural depicts how village Frantato got its name Goat 🐐 herder named Frantas was first To pass by this land |
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| Frantato Sites |
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| Water well |
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| Main church square |
We have gone to square during daytime
Church, Taverna, Kafenio are all closed ,square has a semblance of a ghost town, not a soul to be found , only wood fired bakery is open early to service villagers.
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| Wood fired bread oven Frantato |
Frantato looks warm welcoming, soft lights come from old wavy glass windows, smoke billows from stone chimneys, a few locals wander about. We open a door to a Kafeneo, all eyes turn our way in curiosity. A Kafeneo is a gathering place, it use to be just for men, to talk politics, drink a Greek coffee, or have a glass of wine, smoking like chimneys while they play cards.
Kalispera Teddy says, Pou is Taverna? They continue to study us, as one man points to next door. I had feeling after door was closed we were a subject for much discussion , its highly unusual for a non local especially during fall/winter months to show up at their doorstep.
Kiki & Dimitris are waiting for us at one of two small tables. A small pot belly wood stove is lit making it warm & cozy inside. Taverna is nothing fancy, but has its own charm. We open a bottle of Karimalis wine that we brought with us. Taverna owners are Nounoa & Pantelis, we order Souvlaki, French fries,traditional tzaziki sauce, barbecued chicken for the table ,of course my favorite a Greek salad. The owners dissappear out front door, come back 20 minutes later, I don't know where they went to cook our food, but it was delicious.
Kiki laughs , everyone in Kafeneo & probably in village know who we are by now and what we are doing in their village.
After awhile Two men came in sat next to us on only other table. Introductions were made, immediately they sent over a carafe of local wine to celebrate welcome their new neighbors.
Glasses are lifted & a traditional toast of
YAMUS
Ends our night!
I am curious how many of you knew those were Chestnuts?....
